Seeking Spirituality in Mid Levels

Hong Kong Island is dominated by a steep hilly terrain with the majority of the population living in towers around the edge of the island. The area known as Mid-Levels is situated on the slopes above Central overlooking Victoria Harbour however because of all the development and the hundreds of towers, it is now impossible to glimpse the harbour from street level. To help with the movement of loads of people the government cleverly decided in 1993 to build an escalator system that would effectively link the Central and Western Districts and decrease traffic problems. There are a total of 20 outdoor escalators and three moving sidewalks making it over 800 metres with a vertical climb of 135 metres and if you were to go from the bottom to the top standing on the escalators rather than walking along them, the travel time would be approximately 20 minutes. Apparently it is considered to be the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world and supposedly moves around 55 000 people per day! The escalator runs down the hill between 6am and 10am to get people to work in Central and then it is turned off and the direction changed to going uphill from 10.30 am until midnight when it stops. I had always thought of Mid-Levels as literally the area surrounding the escalators with restaurants, bars, and shops lining its route and therefore common place to find expats out for a good time, thus associated with excessive drinking and partying, so not really my ideal haunt and therefore up until now little explored by me except for the odd dinner out. But I was to discover that it is so much more than this.

I had purchased a book called the leisurely Hikers Guide to Hong Kong, I liked the word leisurely in the heading. This book contains lots of different walks, both out in the natural areas of Hong Kong and in the centre of all the hustle and bustle of city life. The walk we decided to do this Saturday was called a Spiritual Hike… being centred around Mid Levels I am sure Richard thought that Spiritual referred to a different type of spirits…and took in a couple of small shrines and the Man Mo Temple (Literary and Military temple) dedicated to two separate gods who represent culture and soldiery respectively. We left the escalator system at Stauton Street where the SoHo fair was almost in full swing. Loads of restaurants line this street alongside funky vintage boutiques and antique stores. Here is what is now called SoHo.

The pungent smell of incense grows thicker the closer we get to Peel Street where there is a small but well patronized shrine on the corner.

Soon after this the crowds began to peter out and we found ourselves wandering along small lanes where there are no cars and you could actually hear the call of birds. Wing Lee Street contains a line of traditional Hong Kong tenements which have survived from another era. Most of them still have the antique printing presses operating from the ground floor as this area was originally dedicated to printing. After walking through a small park and soaking up the sunshine and quietness of the old area, we headed down an area of old stone stairways, a good indication of what the Mid-Levels were like before the advent of the motor car. The district that we were in was formerly known as Tai Ping Shan, once a hotbed of crime, disease and prostitution. After an outbreak of the plague sometime in the 19th Century they razed the whole area allowing for the development of multi story tenements to then be razed to allow the development of the towers that now dominate the island.

Once we reached Hollywood road (referring to the Irish estate of a former governor rather than links to Tinsel town) we found the Man Mo Temple. We were aware of its existence well before finding it for the smell of incense was almost over powering. Many Temples and Shrines in Hong Kong are dominated not just by individual sticks of incense but by huge coiled incense hanging from the ceiling. I am beginning to think the haze that often lies over Hong Kong is not caused by industry in China but by the incense being burnt in the thousands of shrines and temples throughout Hong Kong.

We were unable to spend more than a minute of two in the temple before my lungs decided they would no longer work, so we head down Hollywood Street to check out all the antique shops. We found a fantastic little street off Hollywood road containing a collection of antique shops, second hand stores and loads of bric-a-brac stalls, much more interesting that the other markets that we have frequented. Apparently once upon a time, this was the place to go and buy back whatever you had had stolen from you in the morning. Not something that would happen now, as the crime rate is so, so low. I am beginning to understand why it is so low, as the laws are pretty strict. I saw a poster the other day that said that the penalty for shoplifting is 10years imprisonment… that is some deterrent!

Finally we emerged from Mid Levels into the Western District at the Western Market. This Edwardian building has been renovated and now houses small shops including a lot of fabric shops. There was also a Chinese desert house here where I decided it was a must to enjoy a cup of tea and a Chinese sweet. Unfortunately I could not tempt Richard to partake in anything but the tea as he is definitely not a fan of the glutinous rice sweets that they eat here, something that I learnt to love in my time living in Japan.

Time to end the trip with a tram ride back to the bus station. We managed to procure a seat up the top of one of the many double decker trams that ply the streets of this part of the Island. As the trams have no air-conditioning, they have open windows and as it was not hot, it was a perfect place to sit and watch the city go by as the tram slowly made its way to its destination.

We decided that we would not get off at the Central bus station but continue on the tram as far as Causeway Bay which was probably not the best decision in hindsight as Causeway bay is very busy with people at the best of time, let alone a month before Christmas when the department store Sogo was having a sale. You could hardly move through the sea of people, but with a bit of subtle maneuvering we did make it to our bus stop and headed for home.